Naples often gets a bad reputation for being chaotic or rough around the edges. But that view only tells a small part of the story. In reality, Naples is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe, founded by the Greeks and shaped over centuries by powerful kingdoms, leaving behind an extraordinary concentration of art, architecture, and culture.

What some perceive as disorder is often simply a city that has never been polished for tourism. Life here is visible, energetic, and deeply authentic. It can feel intense at first, but that same energy is exactly what makes Naples so special. With the right approach, it reveals itself not as a challenge, but as one of Italy’s most vibrant and rewarding

Where To Stay

When spending time in Naples, I recommend the following areas: Plebiscito and Chaia.  Both of these areas are convenient to the most popular attractions, walking tours start point as well as convenient train access.

Chiaia is Naples' upscale neighborhood, known for designer shopping, elegant cafes, and a beautiful seaside promenade. It offers a sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere perfect for travelers who enjoy refined experiences.

Piazza del Plebiscito puts you in a central, elegant area of Naples, within easy walking distance of major sights, the waterfront, and key transport connections.  One of the largest squares in both the region of Campania and the whole of Italy. It is located in Naples’ central San Ferdinando district, about halfway between the historic center of Naples and its waterfront. 

Via Toledo, one of the city’s main shopping streets, leads directly to the square; locals and visitors stroll the length of this busy thoroughfare (which some Neapolitans still refer to by its former name of Via Roma) to take in its shops, cafes, and historic buildings on their way to the Piazza del Plebiscito.

Here is a limited list of hotels that one may want to consider (not affiliated but well located and fairly priced):

• Hotel Principe Napolit'Amo, 

• Relais Don Pedro de Toledo

• The Boutique Napoli Suite

• Plebiscito Boutique Rooms

• Hotel Lanfipe Palace

• I Giardini Del Re

• Librai suite

How to Choose the Right Place for You

TIP: The options are many and it depends, but here is a simple way to find the right place for you.

1. Map out all the points of interest you want to visit

2.  Identify a property in that area within your budget, ideally near the suggested locations

3. Enter the address into Google Maps and review the Street View to assess the surroundings

4.  Check recent online reviews to confirm overall quality and experience

What You’ll Find Right at Your Doorstep in Plebiscito and Chiaia 

• The Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale): The magnificent Palazzo Reale di Napoli lines an entire side of the square.  See the details below.

• The Basilica di San Francesco di Paola: A prominent church located to the west in Piazza del Plebiscito, the main square of Naples, Italy. The construction started in 1816 and ended in 1846. No tickets are required for general entry, although guided tours or audio guides are available through third-party platforms.

• Piazza del Plebiscito square is bookended by two identical buildings, Palazzo della Prefettura and Palazzo Salerno (on the side nearest the waterfront). 

• Gran Caffè Gambrinus, one of the oldest and most famous coffee houses in Naples, is just off the square. Stop here for an authentic Neapolitan espresso and a delicious sfogliatella.

• Galleria Umberto I, a stunning 19th-century glass-roofed shopping gallery just steps away, is Naples’ version of the grand Italian “gallerie” found in major cities—elegant predecessors of today’s indoor malls, designed as refined social and shopping spaces. 

• Teatro San Carlo (across from Galleria Umberto I), this is the first and oldest Opera theater in the world that is istill operating. It has an entrance fee, but it is nice to see from the outside (but it is worth to enter it). To view the inside you must join a 30 min guided tour that can be purchased at the entrance. The price is 9 EUR per person. Double check the current situation at the official web site www.teatrosancarlo.it 

• Maschio Angioino Castle right to the left of the theater. Entrance fee is EUR 6.

What To Do

At a minimum, you should consider a guided walking tour or a hop-on hop-off bus to get a proper introduction to the city.

Hop on Hop off bus

You can get two routes with one ticket,  €26 https://www.city-sightseeing.it/hop-on-hop-off-city-naples/

Free Walking Tours (Tip-Based)

The following links offer "free" walking tours. These are tip based, or pay what you want tours (typical tip €10-20 or more if you wish, in cash, EUR bills).  They are a great way to get to know the location you are visiting as you always get a real local.  Naples is a very lively, high energy and culture rich city.  Having a local present it to you properly would make all the difference.  

https://www.guruwalk.com/ 

http://www.freewalkingtournapoli.com/ 

https://www.napolithatsamore.org/our-tours/ 

Two Streets of Naples Where the City Comes to Life

No visit to Naples gives you a true sense of the city unless you spend time walking through its historic streets, which are the real heart of Naples. This is where daily life, history, and culture exist side by side, not as something preserved, but as something lived. These streets follow ancient Greek and Roman layouts and are filled with churches, artisan shops, balconies, and constant activity, making them far more than simple roads—they are the essence of the city itself.

These two streets in Naples are not just roads but living layers of history, where daily life unfolds on top of centuries of culture. This density of life, architecture, and tradition makes simply walking through these streets a core sightseeing experience, not just a way of getting from one place to another.

Spaccanapoli is the most iconic of these, a long, straight street that quite literally “splits” the old city in two and traces the original Greek road plan. It offers a continuous slice of Naples, with historic palaces, churches, and local life all compressed into one line. The most interesting and active stretch of Spaccanapoli is the section between Piazza del Gesù Nuovo and Via San Gregorio Armeno.  

Via San Gregorio Armeno is famous for its artisan workshops that create traditional nativity scene figures year round, blending religious tradition with humor and contemporary culture, believe me when I say you do not want to miss this. 

Together, the two streets capture the essence of Naples: layered, vibrant, and deeply authentic.

TIP: Take half a day to create your walking itinerary. Start on Spaccanapoli from Piazza del Gesù Nuovo and continue toward Via San Gregorio Armeno, then spend time exploring that area as well. Check the “free tour” links to see if you can join a locally led exploration of these neighborhoods. 

Essential Experiences in and Around Naples

Veiled Christ 

Inside San Severo Chapel: (Cristo velato) is a world-renowned marble sculpture completed in 1753 by the Neapolitan artist Giuseppe Sanmartino. It is widely considered one of the most remarkable artistic achievements in history due to the "transparent" quality of the marble shroud that covers the figure of the deceased Jesus. Tickets: Online reservations are mandatory and often sell out weeks in advance. Standard tickets are approximately €12.https://www.museosansevero.it/en/the-chapel-and-the-veiled-christ/the-veiled-christ 

Museum and Chapel of San Gennaro Treasure

Located inside Naples Cathedral, houses a priceless collection of over 700 years of donated religious art, gold, silver, and jewels, including the stunning Mitra Gemmata (3,964 precious stones) and the saint's blood ampoules. It is considered one of the world's most valuable treasures, rivaling the British Crown Jewels. Tickets: €14 https://tesorosangennaro.it/en/book-online/

Reggia di Caserta (1/2 day tour)

The largest former royal residence in the world, over 2 million m3 in volume covering an area of 47,000 m2 and a floorspace of 138,000 square metres distributed across five floors. Tickets: €18 (plus €1 for online processing) https://reggiadicaserta.cultura.gov.it/en/. Tickets can be purchased at the entrance with no issues. Can be reached by train (€5 each way) from Central Station to a stop directly in front of the palace entrance.

Royal Palace of Naples

 Inside this grand and austere building lies a network of porticoes, courtyards, and gardens leading to spaces once occupied by the royal court and various service functions of the palace. Today, these have been replaced by a museum and other cultural institutions, such as the National Library and the Teatro di San Carlo. Tickets: €17 https://palazzorealedinapoli.org/en/ 

Underground Naples (Napoli Sotterranea) 

This is a 2,400-year-old network of tunnels, cisterns, and caves 40 meters below the city, offering guided tours of ancient Greek/Roman aqueducts and WWII bomb shelters. Located in the historic center, key sites include the official Napoli Sotterranea (Piazza San Gaetano), Neapolis Sotterrata (San Lorenzo Maggiore), and the Catacombs of San Gennaro. Tickets: €15 (at the gate) https://www.napolisotterranea.org/en/ (Skip the queue tickets available online, but lines are not long at the entrance).

National Archeological Museum

The National Archaeological Museum of Naples is an important Italian archaeological museum. Its collection includes works from Greek, Roman and Renaissance times, and especially Roman artifacts from the nearby Pompeii, Stabiae and Herculaneum sites. Tickets: starting at €20 https://museo-archeologico.tickets-naples.com 

Island of Ischia 

A day tour to Ischia from Naples typically lasts 8–9 hours, featuring a 1-hour hydrofoil ride from Molo Beverello, scenic island drives, and visits to highlights like the Castello Aragonese, Sant'Angelo, and Forio. Options include private taxi tours with lunches, guided group excursions, or independent exploration, often combined with thermal parks like Negombo or Poseidon.  

• Here is my article that will make you think you need to go asap ;-)

• Great article on how to spend 2 days in Ischia, 

• Other very good article

• Ischia Vacanze travel agency,   Aenaria Travel agency for Ischia,  Ischia Star travel agency

Getting Around Naples

Taxis, Private Transfers, and Smart Choices

Naples is busy, and sometimes chaotic. Getting around is simple once you understand how the system actually works.

Taxis in Naples: what you need to know

Naples has official licensed taxis that are white, with a taxi sign on top and a license number on the door.

There are two ways a taxi fare is calculated:

1. Metered fare  This runs like a normal taxi. Final price depends on distance, traffic, and supplements.

2. Fixed fare (tariffa predeterminata or tariffa fissa)   This is what you want for key routes. It is a set price established by the city.

For example:

• Airport ↔ City Center: about €28.50

• Airport ↔ Port: about €24

These fixed fares are per car, not per person; include luggage, night, and holiday supplements; must be requested before the ride starts

What to say:
“Tariffa predeterminata per __________, per favore.”  It means "I would like a fixed fare service for _______, thank you". Have this printed and ready to show.

If you do not ask, the driver may use the meter instead. 

The fixed fares are for specific locations (see here) and for any transfer outside the city limits taxis are allowed to charge double the metered fare.

SEE HERE FOR TAXI FARE CALCULATOR

SEE HERE FOR TAXI FIXED FARE TABLE

How to actually get a taxi (this matters)

Best options, in order of reliability:

1. Taxi stand (recommended)

Found at airport, train station, major squares. Open your Google map and search for "taxi stand".

Just get in the next available taxi or wait for the next one to arrive.

2. Hotel calling a taxi

Ideal for early departures or tight timing

NOTE: If you do not specifically ask the hotel to call a taxi at the standard fixed fare, they will likely arrange a private driver instead, similar to a limo or Uber Black service. These are significantly more expensive.  (see private transfers below)

3. Apps (FREENOW) 

Perfect for Rome but in Naples is less reliable. Cancellations or delays, especially at peak times are possible.

Private transfers: when they make sense

These are the services we use on our tour, they are reliable, professional but much more expensive.

A private transfer is different from a taxi.

You are paying for: a reserved vehicle, exact pickup time, no waiting, door to door service, English speaking driver.

Typical price: Airport ↔ city center: about €50 (sedan) – €70 (minivan)

Use a private transfer when:

• you arrive late at night

• you have a group or a lot of luggage

• timing is critical

• you want zero stress

Otherwise, a taxi is enough.

Public transportation: what actually works

Alibus (best public option)

• Airport ↔ train station ↔ port

• €5 per person

• Runs every 15–20 minutes

There is no direct metro to the airport.

What to do and what not to do

Do:

• Ask for the fixed fare upfront

• Use taxi stands or hotel-arranged taxis

• Keep small cash available

• Confirm price before departure

Do not:

• Get into random cars offering rides

• Assume the driver will automatically apply the fixed fare

• Rely on apps for time-sensitive transfers

• Overcomplicate short distances

Bottom line

• Taxi with fixed fare = best balance of cost and simplicity

• Private transfer = comfort and certainty at a higher price

• Public transport = cheap, but only practical in specific cases

Hope this was helpful!

See you in Italy,

Alessandra